360renos

2012-02-01T07:01:00.001-05:00

CMHC - Hiring A Contractor

Great advice from Canada Housing and Mortgage
Original Article

At some time, most homeowners will hire someone for repairs or renovations. Even a homeowner experienced in home repairs may have to hire a contractor or renovator because of the size or level of difficulty of the job. This fact sheet will help you choose a contractor and work effectively and fairly with the contractor to achieve the results you desire.

Who Do You Hire?

Once you have decided to renovate and know, or at least have a good idea of, what you want, choosing a contractor or renovator is a crucial decision. It’s not something you should rush into.

The contractor you hire should have the technical, business and interpersonal skills, the tools and the experience needed to do the job you want done. Hire a contractor who has experience with projects similar to yours. This contractor will know what materials and techniques are needed for your work; and even better, about problems with similar work — and how to solve them.

For large renovation projects, you can hire a renovator to take charge of the whole job since many renovation contracting companies are set up to handle both design and renovation work. You may hire an architect, architectural technologist (depending on the size of the project) or a designer to prepare your project’s plans for permit application and then invite contractors or renovators to submit a quotation based on these plans. These professionals may also provide their services to oversee your project, which may include obtaining all necessary permits, hiring a contractor(s) and the supervision of the work.

Finding and Choosing a Contractor

Start by looking for several suitable contractors. A good source of referrals may be a family member, friend, or neighbour who has had similar work completed. They can tell you about the dependability of the contractors they worked with, the quality of the work and their overall experience with that company. Other sources are your local homebuilder and renovator associations; local building supply stores; in some municipalities, your local building department; and through contractors' websites on the Internet.

Discuss your project with a few potential contractors to get their advice and suggestions on how they would do the work. At the first meeting, some may give you a rough estimate of costs, depending on the project’s scope and complexity. The first meeting is usually more to get to know the contractor and the contractor’s work. Unless you have been able to check out the contractor ahead of time you should not sign anything or pay anything at this stage.

You want to find out as much as you can, so ask a lot of questions, such as:

How long have you been in business?
What work are you, or your subcontractors, licensed to do, e.g., electrical, plumbing?
What kind of work do you specialize in?
Have you done a similar job before?
Will you use your own crew for the work or will you subcontract all or part of the job?
How would you handle a specific problem related to this project (e.g., installing kitchen cabinets on your sloping floor)?
How will you deal with the health and energy efficiency aspects of the job?
How and when do you clean up, particularly fine dust?
What work schedule will you follow?
What kind of warranty do you offer and what does it cover?
Do you carry workers’ compensation and liability insurance?
Will you provide a written contract?
Will you take out all required permits (e.g., building, plumbing, electrical)?

You won’t offend reputable firms with questions. If a contractor doesn’t seem to know much about the technical details of the job or doesn’t want to talk about them, you may have the wrong contractor.

If the contractor plans to do the whole job alone, make sure he or she has all the necessary skills and qualifications.

Most importantly, be sure you can get along with the contractor. If you cannot communicate effectively with the contractor, things can get very tense in a lengthy project. You want a contractor who will explain what’s going on as the project takes shape, who will discuss problems reasonably and who will work with you to make the result as good as it can be.

You also want someone who’s willing and able to help you refine your plans where possible, resulting in a more desirable and cost-effective project. A contractor who is knowledgeable about the type of work you’re doing should be able to suggest ways to get what you want and meet your budget.

The best proof of quality is satisfied customers. The contractors you decide to meet with should have references from at least three previous clients who have had similar work done. Don’t accept the references at face value. Phone them and ask about their experience with the contractor and their tradespeople and ask them if they were satisfied with the quality of the work. Were there any problems? Did the contractor keep them informed throughout the project? Did the contractor’s crew keep a clean work site? Was the work done on schedule? Were there changes to the scope of the work and if so how were they handled? Would they hire the contractor again or recommend the company to friends or family?

If the previous clients are willing, visit them to see the finished job. Their willingness itself is usually a sign that they were satisfied. Check with your local Better Business Bureau. It records complaints about contractors in your community.

Getting Estimates or Proposals

How many estimates do you need? There are no hard and fast rules here. Some consumers prefer to get a number of bids before making a decision. Others find that after the interview process, there is one contractor they strongly prefer and only ask that contractor to submit a formal written estimate or proposal. What really matters is that you end up feeling that you have adequate information to make the right choice of contractor.

As a general rule, with the proper drawings and specifications, three estimates will usually provide sufficient information for you to make a decision. To get estimates, especially for substantial projects, you’ll need good-quality drawings and detailed specifications. You can either use an architect or designer, or you can hire a renovator who offers design services as well as renovation services. In this latter case, the drawings can become part of the overall contract if you hire the renovator for the entire job. But you don’t have to use the same renovator for the work. Should you choose to use the set of drawings provided by this renovator to obtain other estimates, you may be required to pay for them.

Even with a small project, a set of written specifications is needed. Be as specific as you can: what type of flooring, what kind and brand of doors and windows, what kind of finishes you want.

For a large project, it can take two to three weeks for a contractor to prepare an estimate. Ask the contractor to submit it in person so you can discuss the estimate with them. Compare the estimate carefully and make sure that everything you ask for is in the estimate. It should include everything that the contractor will have to do to complete the job. Assume that anything not listed is not included in the price. As well, make sure the contractor provides you with a construction schedule.

In some cases, a contractor will give you a “fixed price” quote. A fixed price includes all the materials, labour, equipment and fees, plus contingencies, overhead and profit. In some cases allowances are established for items which you have yet to select, e.g., flooring and light fixtures. The allowance, which is only an estimate, is later adjusted once you have made your final selection.

If it is difficult to estimate just how much the job will cost — for example, for an old house that might need extra work — you can use the “cost-plus method” for contracts.

In a cost-plus contract, you pay the contractor the actual cost for labour, materials, equipment and a percentage for overhead and profit. Cost-plus contracts leave costs open-ended, so it’s best to set a limit so costs don’t get out of hand.

Remember, renovation may uncover hidden problems, so make sure you include a contingency budget to cover unforeseen costs.

Another option is a design-build contract, in which a renovator designs and carries out the whole project. You can use either a fixed price or cost-plus contract, again with a set cost limit.

Don’t automatically choose the contractor who gives the lowest estimate. It may be unrealistically low. The contractor may not have understood the project, may be underestimating what it will take to complete the work, or simply trying to get a price advantage over the competitors. In any case, you could risk unexpected and additional costs, or you may end up with a job that leaves you unsatisfied.

Look for a fair price. Factor in any differences in what the contractors are offering and the skills they bring to the job. Then add the intangibles: reputation, willingness to make suggestions and offer advice, the likelihood of standing behind the work. Choose the contractor you feel will give you the best overall value for your money.

Get it in Writing

Do not be tempted by a contractor who doesn’t have an address, doesn’t want a written contract and offers a discount if you pay cash. This type of underground economy transaction involves many risks and pitfalls that offset any savings to the homeowner.

For example, contractors who insist on cash may be unlicensed and uninsured; and without a written contract your cash advances are unprotected. They could neglect to get the required permits or inspections. Product warranties may not be valid if a recognized contractor does not install the items.

As well, an underground contractor may do poor work and create health and safety problems. If one of the contractor’s crew is improperly trained, is injured on the job or damages your property or a neighbour’s property, your homeowner’s insurance policy might not cover you and you could be liable.

A cash deal may leave you with no legal recourse if something goes wrong or the work isn’t satisfactory, or if the contractor walks off the job without finishing it. In fact, it makes it difficult for you to prove the contractor was ever there. And after you have paid the contractor, you may find that materials haven’t been paid for or workers haven’t been paid — and you are responsible for the bills. For your own protection and peace of mind, it’s best to deal in a legal and responsible way — always get it in writing.

The Contract

A detailed written contract between you and the contractor you hire is essential to any renovation or home repair project, no matter its size. Even the smallest job should be put in writing. For detailed information as to what should be included in a contract, making payments and to see an example of a contract refer to the About Your House titled "Sample Renovation Contract".

Completion Certificate

When the job is finished, the contractor may ask you to sign a certificate of completion. Don’t sign it until you have thoroughly inspected the work. If the contractor has to return later to finish a few minor details, you should note this, and if appropriate, hold back a portion of the payment to cover the outstanding work.

Professional contractors offer a warranty on their work and will come back if something goes wrong.

Holdbacks

There are three types of holdbacks:

Builders Lien Holdback — This type of holdback is intended to provide homeowners with protection should subcontractors or suppliers place liens against the property to secure payment for work performed, and who may not have been paid by the general contractor, for their services. This allows a period of time, after the project is substantially completed, for them to make any required claim. At times, the general contractor will arrange for these funds to be held in trust by a lawyer. Where there are no subcontractors or suppliers involved with the project, this requirement will not apply.
Note: The Builders Lien Holdback funds cannot be used to correct deficiencies. Each province has its own regulations regarding this type of holdback.Verify with your provincial authority for such rules or regulations in your area.
Deficiency Holdback — When a project is substantially complete, there will often be a number of items that are incomplete and/or which may need to be corrected. It is a standard procedure to hold back a reasonable amount of money (e.g., cost per item or a percentage of the total cost of the project) to cover the cost for these items. Once these items have been satisfactorily completed, complete payment is forwarded to your contractor.
Seasonal or Delivery Holdback — Depending on the time of the year (season) that your project is carried out, there may be items that cannot be completed (i.e., exterior painting, landscaping, etc.) and/or there may be products/material that are not readily available. In these situations, it is standard procedure to hold back payment(s) equaling the cost of the items remaining to be completed.

Working with your Contractor

Once the job is under way, you’ll see a lot of your contractor and the crew. The job will go much better if there is mutual respect and you co-operate with them. Talk with the contractor, so you know what’s going on and what might be needed from you — an empty driveway so the delivery van can bring in the new bathtub, for example. But don’t call every five minutes. Make a list of your questions and save them for a time which you are both available.

In spite of a clear, detailed contract, disputes can, and occasionally do, arise for any number of reasons. Good communication can go a long way in settling any disagreements between you and your contractor. As a first step, you should sit down together to discuss the problem calmly and seek a solution that you both can live with comfortably. This is usually the fastest, least expensive and ultimately, most satisfactory approach.

Try to be reasonable. Don’t overreact if something is wrong. Allow sufficient time for a response. As well, things the contractor can’t control, like bad weather and backordered components, can delay the job, so leave a little leeway in your schedule for them.

If these steps have not helped, you can follow the dispute resolution method, or mediator as identified in the contract. Architects and construction arbitrators are often used to settle any disputes.

As a last resort, and in cases where things are going so badly that the project seems unworkable, you have the option of cancelling the contract. This is why it’s wise to put a termination clause in the contract. You’ll likely have to pay to get out of the deal, so it’s best to agree on the cancellation penalty before you start.

If you think that some of the work is not up to local building standards, report it in writing to the appropriate inspection department, with a copy to your contractor. If the work doesn’t meet building code requirements, the contractor should have to correct it at his or her expense.

Also, you can report poor workmanship and unsatisfactory business practices to the government department that granted the contractor a business licence, where applicable.

Consumer Protection Laws

There are several laws protecting consumers. Provincial and territorial consumer affairs or consumer relations departments usually administer consumer protection laws. They can help you resolve problems between you and your contractor. Sometimes a phone call is enough, but a letter outlining the problem (giving names, dates, addresses and details) is often required before any action can be taken.

The consumer protection authority may send a building inspector to examine the work. The inspector’s report may be enough to settle the dispute. If not, the consumer protection office may provide mediation. The power of a government consumer protection office is a strong incentive for settlement. If it isn’t and legal action is required, the consumer protection office will give you further advice and assistance.

The Better Business Bureau, a monitoring agency maintained by the business community, will also handle consumer complaints and mediate disputes and try to get a fair settlement.

If legal action is necessary, you may be able to take the contractor to small claims court without having to hire a lawyer or the complications and delays of a formal court case. Although small claims court is relaxed and informal, its decisions are binding. The size of the claim you can make depends on the province or territory where you live. Your local courthouse can give you this information and direct you to the office that handles small claims cases.

About Insurance

It’s important to make sure the contractor has workers’ compensation and third-party liability insurance for all the people on the job and damage they may cause ($2 million is standard, this may not be the case in rural areas). Your local homebuilders’ association is a good source of information for what is standard in your area. Don’t just take the contractor’s word — ask to see a certificate and check to make sure it’s current. Don’t accept or assume any liability for the contractor or trades people.

As for your liability, your homeowner’s insurance policy may cover you during a project done by a renovator but you should always advise your insurance provider of any renovation work ahead of time. However, if you’re acting as your own general contractor and employing trades people, your policy won’t automatically cover you. You’ll have to ask your insurance company for temporary coverage, which will likely involve a small extra premium. Again, make sure any tradespeople you hire have their own insurance.

Checklist — Hiring a Contractor

What to do first
	Write a description of the work you want done, with as much detail as possible.
	Check with your municipal building department to ensure that the work can be done and if zoning approval or any special permits are required.
Find a contractor
	Ask friends and neighbours for recommendations.
	Get names from your family members, friends, local homebuilder and renovator associations, building supply outlets and, in some municipalities, your local building department.
	Ask contractors for their business licence number and check with the local licensing office and the firm’s insurance company for public liability and property damage insurance and workers’ compensation.
	Ask for references from past customers.
	Check with the Better Business Bureau for complaints against the contractor.
Establishing the cost: getting estimates or proposals
	Number of estimates or proposals: __1 __2 __3 Do you have:
	A complete description of the work to be done by the selected contractor?
	Samples and literature showing different products that could be used?
	Depending on the size of the project, plans or sketches and specifications of the work to be completed?
The contract should contain
	Correct and complete address of the property where the work will be done.
	Your name and address.
	Contractor’s name, address, telephone and GST numbers.
	Detailed description of the work, plans (or sketches) and a detailed specification of the materials (type, quality, model) to be used.
	The right to retain a lien holdback as specified in provincial law.
	A clause stating that work will conform to the requirements of all applicable codes, such as building, safety and fire codes.
	Start and completion dates.
	The price and payment schedule (keep in mind the lien and seasonal holdbacks).
	Agreement on who (homeowner or contractor) is responsible for all necessary permits, licenses, inspections and certificates.
Contractor’s responsibilities include:
	Public liability insurance.
	Property damage insurance.
	Identifying any necessary permits and ensuring all legal requirements are satisfied.
	Workers’ compensation for all employees of the contractor or subcontractors.
	All work carried out under the contractor, including work done by subcontractors.
	Removal of construction debris when the job is finished.
	Warranties on all contractor supplied work and materials (in addition to manufacturer’s warranties) for a period of at least one year.
Homeowner’s responsibilities include:
	Ensuring that all contracted work conforms to zoning bylaws.
	Ensuring adequate working space and freedom of movement for workers, and use of utilities.
	Ensuring prompt payment according to the requirements of the law and the holdback and payment schedule.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Great Article by Mike holmes

2011-12-23T07:09:00.001-05:00

Take a word of advice from Mike Holmes, Canada’s most veneered general contractor of all times.

It amazes me, after doing my television show all these years, that I’m still seeing homeowners making the same knucklehead mistakes over and over. The big one — the one that starts a chain of events ending in disappointment and frustration — is the notion that they want the renovation done “fast” and they want it done “cheap.” And let’s face it:, in the renovation game, fast and cheap add up to just one thing — crap.

Mike Holmes

Before you start flipping through the Yellow Pages and calling every contractor in the book, let’s get your expectations on the right planet. You should expect that in this day and age, skilled contractors are in high demand: good contractors are very, very busy.

This means when you do start phoning contractors, don’t be surprised that they don’t immediately answer their phones — they are probably standing on a ladder somewhere with their hands full when you call. Don’t take it personally or assume they are not interested in talking to you, but contractors won’t answer their cell phones every time it rings. Constant interruptions slow down a jobsite. For this reason alone, most contractors wait until they are away from the jobsite before they return your calls.

Depending on the volume of messages they get, it can take at least a few days to get back to you because your average licensed tradesperson is in business as an owner-operator. This means that they do all the work themselves and also do their own bookings. A slow response time is not necessarily a bad sign: it shows that they are in demand and it is a pretty good indicator that they are going to be well worth the wait.

It’s also important to understand that good contractors are booked at least two to four months in advance. If you feel you can’t wait, remember this: Bad contractors are always available right away — because they are not in demand, or worse, because they are more than willing to bump their current renovation in progress to get started on yours. Odds are, that situation will come back to haunt you when, halfway into your renovation, the same contractor will bump you in favor of his latest customer.

If a contractor says he will “try to fit you in as soon as he can” and to “please be patient,” take that as a sign that he isn’t going to take shortcuts on his current project just to get to yours that much sooner. High-quality work takes time. You also don’t want that same contractor to turn around and rush your job just to get to his next one.

Let’s talk about the other part of the consumer equation: cheap. No one wants to spend more than he has to on a renovation, but as the saying goes, “You get what you pay for.”

How much is the right amount? That requires some work on your part, because it means getting as many quotes as possible. In the end, you may get a few extremely high quotes and a few extremely low quotes, and most likely you will get the majority of quotes that fall around the same price. Chances are, one of those middle quotes will be the right price.

The higher quotes sometimes reflect the skill level of the contractor or the price that the market demands for certain contractors who have a reputation for outstanding-quality work. Extremely low quotes often mean that the contractor doesn’t have the experience to properly quote the job, let alone know what it will take to do the job properly, or that he knows how to take shortcuts with your home in order to undercut the legitimate competitors.

So as you start planning your project, be prepared to wait for the right contractor and understand that there are ways to find the right price for the renovation you want.

Source: HGTV

New 360renos.ca Brochure

2011-11-12T17:20:00.001-05:00

Awesome new brochure designed and printed by the great folks at Sureprint.ca in Orleans

If your a Realtor, Interior Designer or Decorator, Home Staging and Property Scene specialist send me an e-mail if you would like a professional brochure that you can include in your client packages.

360renos offers many services which can help your clients who may be in need of a small fix repair or painting project that is needed to sell their home quickly.

My brochure outlines what we offer and my quotes are always free!

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

LED Light Bulb Cost and Return on Investment

2011-11-05T08:51:00.000-04:00

The LED bulb I bought was pricey at $29.98 but like CFL's they will come down over time and as more manufactures come on-line. I sure wouldn't want to re-lamp my entire home in one shot. I will do it though as existing bulbs burn out.

Another area I was very impressed was the many varieties of LED bulbs available for the numerous applications out there. LED bulbs available as floods, PAR 20, GU 10, etc. I love it that my customers don't have to retro fit light fixtures to accommodate the new bulbs. I haven't seen any 3 way LED bulbs though.

So I did some math on the LED ROI because my curiosity got peaked upon reflection of the bulb cost.

For a lamp that's on six hours a day, that would give us 12 watts x 6 hours x 365 = 26.3 kWh. At $.092 per kWh (mid -peak price) that's $2.42 a year to operate. Subtract that from $12.09 (incandescent cost) and that's a savings of $9.67 a year.

The bulbs packaging says it has a lifespan of 25,000 hours, it should theoretically last for about 11 years in this application. Over 11 years, we would otherwise have to buy 22 incandescents, for a cost of $16.50, or about $1.50 each year. With the annual savings of $9.67 in energy and $1.50 in bulbs, the LED will pay for itself in just under three years.

Not bad!

I could see these bulbs being very beneficial in commercial applications which need a lot of light. It would be a huge cost savings for them.

I'm definitely looking forward to being able to provide my customers with an alternative lighting solutions now.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

New LED light bulbs are brighter and more efficient

2011-11-03T07:36:00.002-04:00

I just installed our first LED light bulb in our home.

Yes those same idea as a LED flashlight that has many little bulbs. Those numerous bulbs make a bright light shine from your flashlight now work very well in a household bulb.

I'm very impressed with the new product for numerous reasons.

The 60 watt equivalent only uses 12 watts of electricity and emits a very warm soft white light. Very similar to regular incandescent bulbs.

It turns on at full intensity instantly which those CFL's sure don't. Sure great for stairways!

The LED bulbs can be used in dimming light fixtures which most CFL's aren't. And the LED dimmable bulb does not hum like a dimming CFL.

These bulbs are reported to last 20 plus years which makes changing the open concept 2nd story ceiling fixture less of a hassle.

One test will be our cold Canadian winters. How will they work in the porch light at -20C? As you know heading out on a cold winter morning it would be nice to have some light.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

New Edinburgh - MacKay St Rec Room Project

2011-10-15T10:19:00.001-04:00

We went from a home that had an unfinished basement and leaking foundation (which you can read in my previous post) to a great additional space for our customers family.

Enjoy the pictures of the progression of the project.

Drywall taping and mudding

Electrical panel and communications center closet finished.

Wiring for pot lights. Drop ceiling installation. Door installation

Pot light installation

Baseboard, door and window trim

Another couple of days and the carpet will be installed

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Leaking Home Foundation

2011-10-01T00:35:00.004-04:00

360renos was getting ready to start a New Edinburgh basement Rec Room project when we found 25' of leaking foundation walls.

A picture speaks a thousand words!

But we had the moldy and rotted materials removed, cleaned up, repaired and dried out over the course of two weeks.

Then we got to rebuild from the ground up and improve upon the existing structure.

New tar paper and the framing was upgraded to 2x4's from the original 2x3's

New upgraded R14 Roxul insulation and vapour barrier.

New drywall, corner beads and taping.

Stayed tuned for more when we finish completing the basement.

Dave

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Cost Effective Home Renovating

2011-07-14T09:32:00.000-04:00

When you buy a home, somewhere along the line you will be faced with the prospect of doing some home renovations. The good news however is, there are many ways accomplishing cost effective home renovations.

All you actually need to do is sit down, take a deep breath and begin to make a list of all the renovations you feel your home may need. At first, do not worry about putting a cost to these renovations, but rather make an accurate and detailed list of everything which you feel may be in need of renovation.

Once you have completed the list, try to prioritise it according to which of these renovations you feel are the most necessary taking into consideration the impact each of these renovations may have on the lifestyle of the homes occupants and on the look of the home as well.

When you look at this list and should you have been honest with yourself, you will soon realise that the renovations which are likely to have the most impact on the appearance of the home and more likely the comfort of its inhabitants are likely to be the more affordable and achievable ones.

Things such as a fresh coat of paint, cupboard renovations and even faucet and fitting renovations or replacements are guaranteed to have a great effect. These in reality are some of the smaller renovations which you may have chosen, but they truly have a great impact not only on living conditions but the value of the home as well.

More often than not one tends to want to tackle all of the renovations you wish done at once, but by breaking it down into a list and prioritising it, you are able to gain perspective and see that it is all possible in stages.

By handling the tasks one by one you reduce the initial cost shock and once you see the difference the smaller changes you make have made you will be more willing and able to take on the bigger ones.

Ezine Articles

Dave - 360renos

Swanson Lightning™ Levels

2011-05-04T14:29:00.001-04:00

Great idea for those dimly light basements!

You would think that many more manufacturers would have figured this one out a long time ago but Swanson put it on the market first. Swanson Lightning™ Levels, from 6" to 48" that have little LED lights to light up the vials when you are having trouble seeing the bubble either at night or in a dark workspace. Sears is supposed to carry them.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Paint a Brick Fireplace

2011-04-13T19:32:00.002-04:00

This is still a controversial decorating subject, but if you've got an ugly, dated brick fireplace, for goodness sake - paint it! I'm not talking about beautiful red brick, Georgian style fireplaces, I'm talking about dingy brown and grey, 1960s and 1970s units.

Honestly, giving it a couple of coats of paint will completely lighten and brighten your room, and possibly even increase your home's value.

This brick fireplace with log storage was painted last year for a customer and still looks great today.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos

phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124

email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Handy Weather & Renovation Tool

2011-04-02T22:36:00.001-04:00

Handy Weather Tool from joneakes.com and his Home Improvements news letter.

As the weather flirts around below and above freezing, it can get quite difficult to know just what you can do and what restrictions the weather might put on your projects.

Now is the most critical time of the year to use the database that I developed last year together with CTV. If you go to the Weather page on CTV.CA, check out your local short and long term forcast, then scroll to the bottom, you will see this little box that allows you to choose your project, then your material and it will tell you immediately any critical weather restrictions for that specific material: must stay dry x hours -- no freezing weather for x hours -- minimum and maximum temperatures for application and curing -- and more.

Dave Bennett

Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Renovator's council chair favours renewing Reno Tax Credit

2011-03-29T06:32:00.000-04:00

The proposed resumption of the Home Renovation Tax Credit was big news lost in the uproar that followed the unveiling of the Conservative Party's 2011 budget, but we are likely to hear a lot more about it.

The old program had been very successful, managing a rare marriage of stimulating an economy while promoting more earth-friendly ideals.

The Canadian Revenue Agency said more than three million Canadians -almost a third of the owner-occupied housing market -took advantage of the program, each saving an average of $700. Added to the 2011 budget ostensibly at the request of the New Democratic Party, the tax credit is a good bet to reappear when a federal budget is finally approved.
The chairman of the Canadian Renovator's Council, Mike Martin, was happy to hear it may be continued. "From what I've been hearing it's a great program. I am very happy they were going to extend it," he said.

In addition to chairing both the Canadian council and the Ontario Renovator's Council, Martin runs Luxury Renovations, an award-winning Ottawa-based company.
While the renovation program had been accused of not helping lower-class households or being too complicated, Martin said the program held no surprises.

"You have to go about it the right way, you have to follow all the guidelines to a tee."
Martin said there was benefit to making small changes as well as large ones.
The program would allow for up to 15 per cent of the cost of renovations to be claimed, to a maximum of $1,350, against a homeowner's taxes.

While the gain for the taxpayer is evident, Martin says the inherent structure of the program will provide a boost to the renovation industry.

"The best part about it is they have to show receipts from the contractor and that deters the underground economy," he said.

The council estimates 75 per cent of home renovations are done under the table, a fact he attributes to the implementation of the HST. "The underground economy is devastating our industry."

From the Ottawa Citizen

Dave Bennett
Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Renovation priorities are the first step

2011-03-22T21:28:00.000-04:00

Article by Hammer & Nail

For many homeowners, renovations can make for a long-term process that takes place in stages over a number of years. Decisions are driven by what needs to be done, how much money is available, and personal preferences.

If you will be renovating in stages, the Greater Vancouver Home Builders' Association says it makes sense at the outset establishing long-term priorities. Among the considerations it recommends:

- Decide how long you plan to stay in your home. Five, 10 or 15 years? More? The answer to that question will influence the renovations you undertake, the time frame for the work and the amount of money you will want to spend.

- Evaluate your overall space needs, now and for the future. How will they change over time? Do you have children whose needs for space may change? Do you have aging parents who might move in with you in the future? Can you find extra space within the existing framework of your home, in the attic or the basement?

- Evaluate the condition of your house. Go through it with a renovator or home inspector, listing repairs and replacements that might be required over the coming years.

- Make a list of your renovation objectives. Divide the list between the things you need in the short term (a new bathroom, for instance) and the things you would like to have (perhaps incorporating a spare bedroom into the master bedroom with an ensuite bathroom.)

- Develop a financial overview. Your renovator can advise you on the approximate costs of repairs and renovations. You can also contact suppliers and subcontractors for information. Next, determine where the money will come from, and how much you can afford.

- Be prepared to make trade-offs. Experienced renovators advise homeowners to find the balance between lifestyle improvements and repairs/ replacements needed to keep your home in good shape.

For instance, you may want to redo the bathroom and include a skylight to brighten it. But if your roof is in poor condition, it may be better to repair it and install a skylight first, and renovate the bathroom later.

- Consider the impact of a renovation. If you plan extensive renovations over time, careful planning will help to minimize inconveniences and disruptions to your household.

- Build into one phase what you need in the next. By planning ahead, you will get the best out of your renovation dollars and save money in the long run.

For instance, for a few extra dollars, your renovator might be able to install the connections for a future bathroom in the basement while renovating an existing bathroom on another floor.

- Put your plan in writing.

Dave Bennett
Owner 360renos
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

Will Navan make it into the Top 5 Finalists?

2011-03-15T18:36:00.000-04:00

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

Will Navan make it into the Top 5 Finalists?

Watch CBC Hockey Night in Canada

Saturday March 19th 10:30pm for the revealing of the Kraft Hockeyville Top 5 Finalists

IF WE MAKE IT

VOTE FOR NAVAN

(Unlimited voting and calling)

from Saturday March 19th11:00pm to Monday March 21st11:59pm

Toll free # 1-866-533-806

www.krafthockeyville.ca

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

2011-03-09T06:29:00.000-05:00

KRAFT HOCKEYVILLE 2011

NAVAN MADE IT INTO THE TOP 10 FINALISTS

Let the voting begin!

from Tuesday March 8th 9:00pm

to Sunday March 13th 11:59pm

VOTE FOR NAVAN

Vote often…voting is unlimited!

Call toll free # 1-866-533-8066

or online www.krafthockeyville.ca

Be part of the team! Let’s win this together!

Hockey Day in Navan Feb 27th

2011-02-19T12:16:00.000-05:00

Choosing Glue

2011-02-18T10:43:00.000-05:00

As 360renos owner and contractor there is a wide array of glues and adhesives available that can be daunting. Use the wrong one on a project and it may not work as intended or worse yet ruin the materials your are fastening.

A little help form and a great article courtesy of Jon Eakes

Choosing Glue:

Before you_buy any glue you need to consider the following questions:

IS THIS GLUE_JOB STRUCTURAL OR NON-STRUCTURAL?
Some glues are rigid after curing while others remain flexible. No flexible glue should be used for a structural joint as it can slip. Hence no flexible glues like silicone or contact cement for building the structure of a chair.

WHAT ENVIRONMENT ARE YOU IN WHEN YOU USE THIS GLUE -- TEMPERATURE - HUMIDITY - WATER?
All glues have upper and lower temperature limitations, read the labels.
Some glues evaporate off solvents or water to cure -- too high humidity in the_room can slow or stop such evaporation. Some glues have chemical reactions that cure differently with different air temperatures but humidity has no affect on the cure -- like the epoxies. Other actually require humidity and will not cure without a minimum of humidity -- like silicone and polyurethane. In really dry environments, like Calgary, you may have to mist the surface first or mist the glue or sealant after application to start the cure.

HOW WELL DO THE TWO PIECES FIT TOGETHER?
Some glues are able to fill gaps and still be strong, like PL Premium (Polyurethane) and epoxies -- while others require a very tight fitting joint, like white glue, contact cement and super glues.

DOES THE GLUE YOU CHOOSE ADHERE TO BOTH THE PIECES TO BE JOINED?
Only contact cement will glue leather to glass well, white glue can do it fairly. Foam insulation will not accept any solvent based adhesive. Check compatibility.

HOW FAST DO YOU NEED THE GLUE TO GRAB, THEN TO CURE?
This is the basic difference between white and yellow woodworking glues. If you need a lot of time to put several pieces together, use the White glue -- if you need to liberate your clamps quickly, use the Yellow glue. Yes Yellow is stronger than White, but both are stronger than wood so strength is a non-issue.
Some glues are really instant -- like the super glues -- others have a quick grab and then a longer cure, like the thick glues for attaching molding without nails -- some are actually timed for the grab, like 5 minute or 60 minute epoxy, both of which require 24 hours for cure.

MUST IT BE WATERPROOF AFTER THE CURE?
Most glues cannot hold up to a lot of rain, but some are made for outdoor use and others even for underwater applications.

Answer all of those questions and your choice for the proper adhesive will be quickly narrowed down. Yes there are some almost universal glues, but these never do the_job quite as well as a specialty glue made for what you want to do.

Some Important Glues:

Although I was showing about 20 glues at the Laval show, here are the ones that caught people's attention:

Quick Grab glue for moldings -- with "Quick Grab" or "Instant Grab" written on the container, these adhesives are specially formulated for putting on moldings with few or no nails. They are very thick and create great suction when pushed into place. Unlike regular construction adhesives, they do not slip or pull away, unless the wall or molding is very crooked. Usually one or two nails, or wood supports for about an hour is all that is required to get them to hold. Give them 24 hours to totally cure before playing with the molding. Prior to these glues coming on the market we could only do this with contact cement, and that was touchy because you cannot reposition to get it in exactly the right place.

They even have a clean "Quick Grab" double sided tape available.

Water based contact cement -- Speaking of contact cement, water based contact cement is thinner than solvent based, doesn't smell (or_burn) and is actually stronger than solvent based contact cement. It costs more per can but less per square inch because it spreads further. For some reason people always think that the old solvent based contact cement is better -- not true. Always prime the edge of particle board with a coat of water based contact cement several hours before trying to apply iron on tapes to the edges. It will soak deep into the fibres and present an ideal anchored surface to the tape iron on adhesive -- never to come off again.

Underwater glues -- Yes you can fix things in the rain, or inside the swimming pool. Although some Marine epoxies are now in the stores, the best formulations I have ever found are only found on the web,www.MrStickys.com with rigid and flexible formulations that really work. There are two important details to working underwater -- use steel wool to clean and scrape the surface first, otherwise you are trying to glue to the algae -- work the epoxy mix onto the surface, slowly pushing away the water. At first it "skates" across the surface and then it begins to adhere because you are pushing the water out of the way. You can see and feel when you are getting adhesion. Without that "working in" there is water between you and the surface, and no long term adhesion. The water won't bother the epoxy but you do need to squeeze it out of the clean joint.

PLPremium vs PLPolyurethane -- PLPremium adhesive (we tend to call it an adhesive not glue when we get to construction applications, but the two words are really the same) is considered the Cadillac of construction adhesives. Waterproof when cured, it cures rock_hard so it can fill gaps or even support objects, is sandable and paintable and now comes in an "extreme" formulation 4 times stronger again! So what is PLPolyurethane that looks the same? This is the same basic material, but formulated to cure like a piece of flexible rubber. Although it adheres magnificently like glue, its flexibility makes it unsuitable for any structural use -- but it is the best of the caulkings (also called sealants) when used to seal up a building gap because it can stretch with building movement without breaking loose and will last 50 years.

Dave Bennett

Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

CFLs - The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

2011-02-04T12:46:00.000-05:00

Starting in 2012, stores across Canada will begin phasing out the sale of incandescent light bulbs under the terms of a federal ban announced in 2007. The ban is expected to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by more than six million tonnes a year and save homeowners about $60 annually in electricity costs.

Compact fluorescent bulbs are vastly more efficient. They use up to 75 per cent less energy than incandescent bulbs, which means reduced greenhouse gas emissions from energy plants. Fluorescent bulbs also last up to 10 times longer.

Fluorescent bulbs are extremely energy-efficient, using up to 75 per cent less energy than incandescent bulbs. (Associated Press)

The effects of the ban on incandescents are being felt first in British Columbia, which is a year head of the rest of the country with its provincially mandated phaseout having begun in January 2011.

Both the federal and provincial moves dovetail with those of other jurisdictions around the world. In 2007, Australia became the first country to ban the incandescent bulb, followed shortly after by the European Union. As of Sept. 1, 2009, the EU ended the manufacture and import of 100-watt and frosted incandescent light bulbs. Clear bulbs will be banned progressively, until all traditional bulbs disappear from stores across Europe in 2012.

The reason such bans have been introducted is because of the technology used in each type of light bulb.

Incandescents work by heating a filament inside a tube until it is white hot and gives off light. But more than 90 per cent of the energy involved in that process escapes as heat.

Fluorescent bulbs, on the other hand, use only a small amount of electricity to excite the gas (mercury vapour) inside the tube. The gas then gives off invisible ultraviolet light, which bounces off the phosphor coating inside the bulb to produce visible light.

While there is no debate over the merits of fluorescent bulbs when it comes to greenhouse gas reduction, there is rising concern over their disposal because they contain mercury.

The problem with mercury

Chronic exposure to mercury — a naturally-occurring element and a known neurotoxin — can damage the brain, spinal cord, kidneys and liver.

"Mercury can impair the ability to feel, see, move and taste and can cause numbness and tunnel vision. Long-term exposure can lead to progressively worse symptoms and ultimately personality changes, stupor and in extreme cases, coma or death," according to Health Canada.

Further, Health Canada says recent research suggests that even at low levels, mercury can have adverse health impacts on the cardiovascular and immune system.

While no mercury is released when the bulbs are in use, taking precautions when throwing them out is important. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates that three per cent of the total mercury in discarded fluorescent lamps is released to the atmosphere when they break during transportation to a disposal facility. Other researchers estimate emissions are as high as 17 per cent.

If a fluorescent bulb ends up in a landfill, the mercury can leech into the surrounding soil or be released into the atmosphere. If it is incinerated, the amount of mercury released into the atmosphere may be higher, according to Health Canada.

While fluorescent bulbs contain about five milligrams of mercury — less than in a watch battery, according to Natural Resources Canada — Health Canada recommends that items containing mercury be treated as hazardous waste.

Disposal varies across country

In Canada, the provinces are responsible for setting regulations around the disposal of household hazardous waste, but municipalities most often carry out the actual disposal.

Disposal programs vary from municipality to municipality, with some offering collection programs specifically for mercury-containing products, such as fluorescent bulbs, in which the mercury is captured and recycled. Other municipalities collect mercury-containing products as part of their general household hazardous waste program.

Not surprisingly, the Federation of Canadian Municipalities has said it would like manufacturers of fluorescent bulbs to assume the cost and responsibility for recycling them.

But new research suggests there may be a way to avoid the problem of mercury disposal altogether. McGill University scientists, for example, are experimenting with a new type of light bulb that uses electrodes made of carbon nanotubes, which would allow mercury to be replaced with water.

Courtesy CBC News

Dave Bennett

Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Design Considerations for Your Homes Trim Part II

2011-01-16T11:38:00.001-05:00

Baseboards and Casings

I recommend you select the profile you wish and then settle on the size. Selecting profiles is very much a personal choice. Colonial (classic) profiles are the most popular. More modern profiles would include styles which feature simple and straight lines.

For very large homes or when trying to match mouldings in older homes, you may need very large trim. Either a 7¼” base or baseboards with extensions may be the answer. For these options there are many great combination ideas avaialble. Another approach is to place a decorative moulding about 2” above your baseboard.

Shoe mouldings are placed at the bottom of the baseboard. Functionally they are used to hide any cracks between the baseboard and the floor. Aesthetically, shoe mouldings can add distinctiveness to larger baseboards.

Casings and Headers

Casings are for around windows and doorways. Normally your casing will be about 2” smaller than your baseboard. Casing is the largest item and the most seen in the household. So select the trim which most appeals to you.

Casings can be enhanced with backband. For larger homes, using backband throughout the house is common, particularly in Toronto. Another option would be to use backband and headers in your main formal areas. The use of headers is a great way to improve an entranceway. It can also be used throughout the house.

The use of bullnose or full sill coupled with a smaller apron piece is a nice touch on windows.

Crown Mouldings

Wood mouldings feature very crisp profiles which show extremely well.

First select what type of crown profile you want:
For ornate crown or those with stylized designs, plaster or polymer mouldings are the best approach.
For simple lines and curves, wood mouldings are best.
For price, MDF mouldings best fit the bill.

You can enhance crown mouldings in a number of ways. You can add a casing trim either on the bottom or top of the crown. This makes the crown look bigger without encroaching on the room. Another option is to to make symmetrical combinations with a casing on either side with a crown in the middle. Or you can add a decorative piece about 6” below the crown.

MDF is becoming more popular. Just make sure you are happy with the profile, compared to that of wood. Many consumers have learned over time that the crispness of wood mouldings is their preference both for casings and crown.

Dave Bennett

Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Design Considerations for your Home's Trim

2011-01-05T14:45:00.000-05:00

Selecting mouldings is very much a personal choice. Having said that, there are a number of factors which you should consider.

Symmetry: Normally your baseboards and casings will reflect the same profile. By doing so the house is brought together.

Depth of Profile: The thicker the moulding, the more profile it will have. Better quality mouldings usually are ¾” thick. These profiles give the room a much richer look. Generally suburban homes come with mouldings 3/8” thickness.

Crisp Profile lines: The crisper the profile line, the more the moulding will stand out. By using finger joint or solid wood the profile lines are very crisp. By using MDF the lines are less crisp and hence will not stand out as well.

Proportionality:Sizing the profile to your room is important. The following is a good guide -

Ceiling height Baseboard Casing Crowns

Stand 8 ft 4 to 5” 2 ½” 4 ½”

9 ft ceiling 5” plus 3 ½” 5 ½”

Over 9 ft 5” plus 3 ½” with backband 5 ½” plus

Proportionality also appears to vary by community. Houses in Toronto tend to use larger trim and backbands than those in Ottawa.

Wood Type

Generally I prefer fingerjoint pine trim. Both the depth of profile and crisp lines are obtained at reasonable product cost. In addition, it comes in lengths of 14 or 16 feet which minimizes waste.

American Yellow Poplar is a good solid wood. It is excellent for painting and more durable than fingerjoint. Like any solid wood it costs more. MDF is great if price is your most important variable. It will not wear nearly as well as fingerjoint pine and the profiles are not as distinct.

Pine, Maple or Oak: If you seek wood for staining, any one of these will do an excellent job. Remember, with pine you can stain it to reflect any natural wood for colour.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Navan for Kraft Hockeyville 2011

2010-12-30T12:45:00.000-05:00

In 2011 there are some great events coming up where you can show your support for Navan's quest to be the Kraft Hockeyville Champions. Please read on as to how you can be part of the great Navan spirit, show your support and getting involved.

Navan for Kraft Hockeyville 2011

Let's Show our community spirit by including this in our 150 year Celebrations!

The Navan Memorial Centre is entered in the Kraft Hockeyville 2011 competition. Four communities will win $25 000 while the top one receives $100 000 in upgrades to their facility and an NHL pre-season game will be played in the arena in the fall of 2011 with a fun day of activities for everyone to enjoy!

Organized hockey has been part of Navan’s precious heritage for 97 years! In 1913, the history of hockey in Navan began as a hockey club was formed of 24 members. Each member paid ten dollars and this money was used to establish an open air rink. If you have played at the Navan Memorial Centre, on Navan teams, against them, attended any hockey game in Navan or just love hockey, you definitely have a hockey story to share!

We need the support of the community to make this dream a reality by submitting any hockey story and a photo to www.krafthockeyville.ca and selecting Navan Memorial Centre until January 30^th, 2011. All stories are also accepted including the ones just supporting our quest therefore if you've been at the arena for a dance, for demolition derby at the fair, skating or a horse show, we want to hear about it. We want to celebrate community!

Vintage Hockey Day will be held on Sunday January 9^th from 1pm to 6:30pm at the Navan Memorial Centre. In conjunction with Navan’s 150 years celebrations, come and take part in Navan’s precious hockey history. Hockey artefacts, photos and memorabilia presented in part by the Cumberland Heritage Village Museum will be on hand to view. We are organizing an alumni hockey game with Ex-Grads Junior “A” players against the alumni of the Gloucester Rangers from 1:00pm to 2:30pm. The admission fee to the Alumni game will be by monetary donation. Also with a $10 donation, you can sample excellent wine & cheese presented by Domaine Perrault Winery.

All proceeds will go to the trust fund of a very courageous 13 yrs old that caught meningococcal meningitis and had amputation of both legs below the knees and has decreased function of his left arm.

The Cumberland Grads will also host the Gloucester Rangers with local singers/song writers, Rothwell & Moffatt performing during the first intermission and Lola Spriggs in the second intermission. We will give a prize to the oldest artefact brought to us and for the oldest player to have ever played in Navan that shows up. You will also hear the Navan for Hockeyville theme song performed by Rothwell & Moffatt. Computers will be set up to submit your stories.

The Navan Lions will serve a spaghetti dinner from 4:30pm to 6:30pm, $10 for adults, $5 for children 5-12 yrs and free for children under 5. Proceeds from the dinner will go to the Food Bank. Door Prizes donated by CIBC Innes & Trim, Lacroix Sports, Broadway Bar & Grill and many more. Join us for a fun afternoon!

Rally at the Navan Memorial Centre on Sunday January 30th from 2:00pm to 5:30pm. This is the last day to submit your hockey stories and photos to www.krafthockeyville.ca. Computers will be set up to submit your stories. Show your support by gathering in the parking lot of The New Oak Tree at 2pm on Colonial Rd. as we will then walk to the Navan Memorial Centre while cheering with signs. The Cumberland Grads host the Smith Falls Bears at 3pm. More to come…..

If you have any questions, need help in submitting your story or would like to volunteer, please don’t hesitate to contact us by telephone Lyne Proulx 613-833-1779 and Barry Irvine 613-835-2509 or email navanhockey@hotmail.com. You can also view our website at www.navanhockeyville.ca or join our Facebook group: Navan for Kraft Hockeyville 2011.

Thanks

Dave

Painting Straight Edges take skill ... or a good tape

2010-12-16T07:15:00.002-05:00

Having trouble getting a clean straight line when completing your home painting projects?

Reading this article posted by a fellow renovator. They use a product that 360renos uses when you want to have impeccably straight paint lines or when cutting in an Accent wall where two colors meet.

The first recommendation is to have a good brush. For interior work, I like an angled brush, as it allows getting into the corner easily, and a 1 1/2- to 2-inch brush works well. Some people like a chiseled brush, which is more like an artists brush, rounded at the tip.

Although patience is a great thing to have in painting, so is a good steady hand. If you lack one or both of those skills, you might want to consider using painters tape. The typical painters tape is blue, available in different widths. It's similar to a regular masking tape, but the blue tape doesn't stick permanently or take any of the surface off when it is removed.

In my early painting experiences, I tried cutting in with just a brush but wasn't satisfied with my results. I switched to using the painters tape. However, I became even more frustrated with this, because when pulling the tape off, I found that the paint often got behind the tape. This causes extra work in wiping it off and then touching up the area where I didn't want the paint to go. So, I went back to the brush only, forcing myself to learn the skill.

However, we have just run across a new painters tape that we've tried out and have found that it works well. It's called Frogtape (frogtape.com) and is available at Home Depot and Lowe's and other hardware stores. The tape is green, so you won't get it confused with the typical blue tape. The reason I like Frogtape is because it is treated with what they call a paint block. As paint is applied to the tape, a polymer on the tape absorbs the water in latex paints, expanding the edge of the tape and creating a barrier. Therefore the paint doesn't get under the tape. The manufacturer states that the tape was created for latex paints, so if you're using an oil-based paint, beware. The only drawback I've found in using this is that at times I had trouble making it stick, so it took more time to get it in place.

As with any painters tape, it is best not to leave it in place for too long after the job is done. If the paint has dried, you might be pulling up paint along with the tape. So, it is best to take the tape off before the paint is dry. Be careful removing it wet, however, not letting the tape touch any other surface, or you may be spending more time doing touchups.

Courtesy of Steve Cloninger

Happy Holidays

Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Mold in your Basement?

2010-12-10T12:10:00.000-05:00

360renos was called in to review a finished basement which had a sub-floor that was sagging and warped due to a basement concrete slab that had heaved in some places and sunk on other places over time.

Well, the heaving was so bad that the 3 teleposts which support the main center beam of the home had either sunk into the earth or heaved up on their pads. It was a very dangerous situation as if this had not been rectified it would have eventually brought down the house.

The concrete slab needed to be demolished, so the sub-floor and interior walls were removed by 360renos. When this was completed we found a huge mold problem in one corner of the basement. This is an older home in Ottawa with cinder block foundation walls. The foundation and environmental experts have been called in!

So first to get this cleaned up with the experts before the next stage of pouring a new basement slab and re-building of the finished basement.

All of this reminded me of a great new article and tips by Bryan Baeumler and his series 'Room for Improvement'

Q: We have a major disaster in our basement due to a mold issue and now we are in a race to fix it. What is the best way to insulate the concrete block walls in the basement? Also, what are the best material to use for a basement subfloor? The current floor has foam insulation and plywood which seems to have worked extremely well but was 20 years old. Of course you could always drop by to take a look …. Cheryl and Mike

A: Hi Cheryl and Mike!

Sorry to hear about the mold in the basement – you’re definitely not alone! A lot of people have similar issues with finished basements that haven’t been waterproofed properly, have had a flood, or have high humidity levels in their homes. The silver lining in the cloud is that you now have the chance to finish the basement properly to avoid experiencing the same problem in the future.

It sounds like you’ve done the demo, which means you have a blank slate to work with. The first thing you ‘ll want to do is make sure you’ve taken care of the moisture problem. If it was a foundation leak, that means waterproofing the foundation wall properly, making sure your weeping tile system is operating effectively, ensuring proper grading of soil around your home, and directing water away from the house with downspouts. If you had a plumbing leak, obviously you’ll want to make sure the problem has been identified and corrected. And finally, if the mold was due to high humidity in the house, you’ll want to make sure you consult with an HVAC specialist to balance the system and install a dehumidifier to assist in lowering the humidity.

When it comes to insulating the foundation walls, you have a number of options. The best method by far is a closed cell spray foam – we use Walltite Eco, which you can ask about and have installed at your local Lowes. The reason spray foam works so well is that it has a high R value / inch, and eliminates any airflow – the biggest cause of heat loss. It can be sprayed right onto the foundation wall (block or concrete), and creates a monolithic insulation layer that won’t feed mold or lose R value due to moisture. You can also use the batt over spray method, which means spraying an inch of foam on the foundation wall, and adding either fiberglass or Roxul batts between the studs to increase R value, while still having the benefits of the air barrier from the foam. Roxul mineral wool insulation is another great product to use in a basement, as it’s fire proof and is a natural repellant to insects and rodents. If you plan on using batts, you’ll also need to vapour barrier the entire wall, tape the seams, and seal the top and bottom with an acoustic sealant. You’ll also want to be sure that you fully insulate and seal the joist bays (the area where your floor joists rest on the foundation) as the rim joist is one of the biggest culprits of heat loss. Not insulating and sealing the joist bays is a big reason people end up with cold floors above the basement, as cold air gets trapped in between the drywall ceiling and the floor above. If you go the spray foam route, joist bays and walls are all sprayed at once. We foamed our entire home, and we currently spend less than $50 / month heating it. We also filled all of the interior walls with Roxul to absorb sound and eliminate any wall cavities where fire could potentially spread.

When it comes to laying a subfloor, head for the Dricore – it has tongue and groove on all 4 sides to keep everything in place, it creates a thermal break from the floor that warms up the room, and also leaves an air space under the subfloor which allows for airflow so any moisture coming through the basement slab can evaporate. It also saves your finished flooring should you have a small amount of water under the floor, where it can flow to the drain. It’s also so easy and fast to install that it ends up being cheaper than other methods when you consider the cost of labour, or sanity. Foam laid directly on the subfloor will also keep your feet warm, but like a sheet of plastic it will eventually trap moisture – the idea is to give any water coming out of your slab somewhere to go and evaporate, something an impermeable layer laid directly on the concrete won’t do.

Of course there are lots of different products and methods to install a subfloor and insulate a basement (of which all done properly will perform well), so you have to make a decision based on your budget and skill level when it comes time to do the job. Most people would agree that the best method is never the cheapest, and the cheapest method is never the best. But when you look at the big picture, the best method is indeed often the cheapest in the long run.

Good luck, and have fun! (I’ll be over as soon as I can!)

Cheers,

Bryan

Fantastic info that can help a lot of home owners

360renos
Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Bathrooms - Without the Eye Popping Price Tag

2010-11-26T21:23:00.000-05:00

How to find the wow factor with out breaking the budget.

Updating the bathroom does not have to be an expensive under taking.

Some times a fresh coat of paint on the walls, baseboard and trim or just replacing light fixtures and towel racks will give the space a whole new look. Replacing the shower curtain can quickly change the look of the room, as can painting the cabinets in modern colors and replacing the pull knobs with decorative new handles. For a personal look add photos or art in simple frames. If the bathroom has a window replacing the shades are an economical way to enhance the bathroom. Look for honeycomb shades which reduce heat loss through your windows by up to 50%.

If you want to conserve water and reduce water heating costs you don't have to replace the bathtub or sink. Switch the shower head and faucets to ones with low flow aerators. Check out the impressive array of designer styles in the latest low-flow toilets. There was a time when this range of products was limited and not very appealing. Now they are both effective and attractive.

360renos
Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Paint is hot, waste is not

2010-11-13T00:01:00.000-05:00

Have some leftover paint? Whether it's a little or a lot consider ....

Recycling: Only a bit left? Decant it into a small glass jar to use for touch ups. Allow can residue to dry then put it out with your Blue box.
Upcycling: Give that old dresser a fresh coat of paint. Voila: "New" furniture, no waste!
Free cycling: Donate extra paint to Habitat for Humanity, ReStore or for sale to raise funds for community housing projects.
Returning: Before you buy, check if your paint store takes leftovers back for safe disposal. Most Home Depot, Lowes and Rona stores do.

360renos
Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Interior Painting - A Quick Fix to Your Home for the Holidays

2010-11-08T20:50:00.002-05:00

With the holidays fast approaching, so are your holiday visitors. Is your home company-ready? If not, there's still time to do something about it, according to Debbie Zimmer, spokesperson for the Paint Quality Institute.

Why is it that we tend to spot deficiencies in our décor just before family and friends are due to arrive?

"In the throes of day-to-day living, most of us become somewhat blind to the condition of our rooms, including their color. But when it really counts, we take a harder, more critical look. All too often, we don't like what we see. When that happens, we are left with a couple of options: We can panic. . . or paint," says Zimmer.

Nothing changes the appearance of a home interior faster, or more effectively, than a fresh coat of interior paint, she says. And, giving a room an entirely new appearance at holiday-time can help lift your spirits and that of your guests.

What's especially nice about painting just prior to the holidays is that you can even choose colors that are appropriate for the season. . . as long as you'll still love them when the day is done.

Zimmer, an expert on color, offers some suggestions: "At Thanksgiving, fall colors that mirror the time of the year are most attractive -- harvest gold, ochre, brown, beige, and rust, for example. And nothing is cozier and more inviting at Christmas or New Year's than a special dinner set in a beautiful dining room decked out in a deep shade of red or green paint."

If you are really pressed for time, you can paint just an accent wall in a holiday-appropriate color, says Zimmer. "Painting even one wall can make a big difference in the appearance of a room and it can be done in a just a few hours. If you fall in love with the color, you have the option of painting the rest of the room at a later date, and if you happen to tire of it, you haven't invested much effort," she says.

Assuming that your pre-holiday painting is focused on rooms that will be filled with people, keep in mind that paints with higher sheen levels will be more stain-resistant and easier to clean. To make cleaning even easier, be sure to use durable top quality 100% acrylic latex interior paint.

And keep in mind that top quality latex paint offers another nice advantage: It has very low odor; plus, any minor odor it may have will dissipate very quickly. Even if you paint only a short time before your guests arrive, no one will catch a whiff of it!

So think about giving yourself and your family an unexpected gift this holiday season – the gift of color. The cost is very reasonable, and a beautifully painted room will provide pleasure not just at the holidays, but throughout the year!

For more information on color selection and interior painting for the Holiday season please contact 360renos

360renos
Dave Bennett
Owner
phone 613.429.5000
mobile 613.282.2124
email dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

"Everything you can imagine is real" - Pablo Picasso

Article with excerpts from Earth Times

Bathroom Wall Tile Updating

2010-11-05T09:31:00.004-04:00

A main bathroom that was in need of a fresh new look from some tired old tiles.

We removed the old tiles and drywall down to the studs. Great news all was perfectly dry behind the old walls! Re-locating the plumbing to accommodate the new bath fixtures

Installed cement board for the new walls. Cement never goes mouldy so it is a great choice. Remember to use specialized screws for the installation of the cement board so they will not rust because you could have possible wall failure in the future.

New brushed nickel tile edging and 4"x4" tiles

Silicone caulking to complete all of the seams. New fixtures round out the updated style of this bathroom.

Dave - 360renos

Caulking - Don't Forget to Caulk

2010-10-16T08:11:00.003-04:00

Excellent article from Dave Lowe of Top Notch Interiors of Lethbridge. They are so correct about the proper use of interior caulking to finish a room properly.

Enjoy the article -

Today’s generation of ‘Do It Yourselfer’ is very empowered. Big box hardware stores bombard marketing channels with campaigns focused on telling the target: “you can do it”.

Corporations have realized that it works. It works very well. I venture to say, with no market research to back me up, that there are more ‘do it yourselfers’ now than there have ever been before. People are prideful. We love to be able to complete tasks. What a great feeling it is to sit back and enjoy a freshly painted room! So when a commercial comes on and tells me that I can build a tree house on my own or with my child, I’m going to be that much closer to actually thinking it. However, just because I think I can do it, and probably can do it, does not mean that I should do it.

When I go into a new home or renovation site and discuss process with homeowners I get an idea of what they know about painting. I also, by nature of profession, critique the paint job of every home I enter into. So I have a pretty good statistical sample pot to develop a thesis or two in regards to what people know about painting.

One thesis is that Caulking is an extremely underrated task. People either don’t know about it, or don’t appreciate the difference maker that it is. The objective of this article is to either introduce you to caulking, or reinforce its importance.

Painted trimwork is the trim of choice these days because it is cheap, easy to work with, and paints very well. However, the homes and do it yourselfers that I have come across don’t realize the way it’s suppose to be painted. Convenience gets in the way. After all, it is a lot easier to paint the baseboards and trimwork before installation and call it complete.

Here are some scenarios that I come across:
A: Pre-finish the trimwork with 2 coats of paint and call it done.
B: Pre-finish the trimwork with 2 coats of paint. Once the installation is complete, putty the holes and touch them up. No caulking needed.
C: Paint the trimwork after installation with no caulking or puttying.

The problem with these very common scenarios is that the trimwork does not look finished. It’s not finished!

After installation there are numerous issues that need to be resolved and cannot be left:
1. Nail holes caused by the nail gun (volcanoes)
2. Cracks exist where trimwork meets trimwork or trimwork meets wall
3. Field/Scrarf joints

This article focuses on issue #2: Cracks exist where trimwork meets trimwork or trimwork meets wall.

The objectives behind caulking trimwork are:
1. Make it look like one piece
2. Create a seal (especially important on the top of baseboards)
3. Cracks break up pieces and look unfinished – fix that problem!

In a home the most common areas that need to be caulked are:

where baseboard meets wall and inside corners of baseboard
door jam casing meets wall
door jam casing meets door frame
vertical pieces of door frame meet horizontal pieces (both sides of door stop as well as the 90 degree joints of door stop
window casing meets wall and vinyl window

In cases where custom multiple piece trim work is used, it is necessary to caulk all cracks where trim piece meets trim piece. Caulking needs to happen after installation, but before painting. A very common malpractice (even by home builders!!) is to buy the same color of caulking as the color of the trim and wait to caulk at the very end. This is extremely bad because the texture of dried caulking loves to collect dust and anything else in the air. The tube will probably say “non-yellowing” or something, but in a year or so it will look horrible due to the amount of dust and other particles the caulking absorbs. So make sure you paint over caulking at all times!

The most important characteristics that you should be looking for in caulking is paintability and ease of application. You don’t want a caulking that is too runny, or too thick. The best caulkings come out of the gun wet enough to wipe it with your finger once and leave a smooth transition. Don’t bother with buying those silly toothpaste tubes of caulking. They are a huge time waster. Make sure you are using a caulking gun, preferably dripless (go to your local paint expert store for more info).

Once the tube is loaded in the gun you need to cut the hole. CUTTING THE HOLE ISVERY IMPORTANT! It can be the difference between a clean caulking job, and a very messy caulking job. Cut a hole just smaller than 1/8" and your job shouldn’t be too messy. Without going into too much detail, the caulker needs to keep in mind that long, single, uninterrupted strokes in both application and wipe are essential to a good job. On the wipe, if too much caulking is collecting on your finger then you are applying too much (hole is too big or your passing too slow). If after the finger wipe the crack is just covered, with a nice small curved transition between materials, you have done a good job. A bad caulking job can be worse than no caulking job!

I encourage all who read this information to implement the use of caulking in your painting practices. It is essential to a perfect looking paint job, and is sure to result in compliments from the fussiest of people. Remember, caulk all cracks, paint over caulking at all times, and smooth transitions. Those are a professional’s secrets.

About the Author

Dave Low is president and CEO of Top Notch Interior Specialists Inc. With over 15 years of professional painting experience, Dave is extremely passionate about doing the job right, fast, and sharp.

That is why 360renos uses Dap Painters Caulk on every interior painting project. We want the homeowner to be satisfied!

Thank-you,
Dave - 360renos
613-429-5000 or
Cell 613-282-2124
dbennett@360renos.ca
www.360renos.ca

What Does VOC Mean?

2010-09-01T23:50:00.003-04:00

Everything you wanted to know about the paint buzzword

The latest eco-buzzword around paint is VOCs, which stands for “volatile organic compounds.” When you break down the acronym, you have “volatile,” which means the substance is easily evaporated; “organic,” which tells us the material is carbon-based; and “compound,” which means it’s a mixture of various atoms.

VOCs are found in many common products, including pressboard furniture and the gas you put in your car. So, what makes them bad?

These pollutants contribute to the formation of both particulate matter and ground-level ozone, two of the main components that create smog,” Environment Canada spokesperson Sujata Raisinghani says. “Smog has been shown to have adverse impacts on human health.”

So, if VOCs are bad for our health, one would think they’d be regulated.

“In Canada, no mandatory requirements pertaining to VOCs in house paints are in force yet,” Raisinghani says.

The Canadian government has published regulations that propose mandatory VOC concentrations in architectural coatings such as paint, stains and varnishes. While these regulations are proposed to come into effect in January 2011, no formal date has been set.

Although we’re hearing more about VOCs these days, low- and zero-VOC paints have existed for a while. Early products, however, lacked the performance of traditional coatings on the market. There was also confusion about adding colour to zero-VOC paints, as the colourant itself had high concentrations of these compounds. Recent advancements, including the advent of waterborne colourants, improve product performance and contain no VOCs, allowing for greener paint that also outperforms traditional paint technology.

Until the regulations take effect, Canadians can make informed choices on environmentally friendly products by consulting the federal government’s EcoLogo program. For a coating to carry the EcoLogo, it must meet or be below certain VOC levels; for example, an interior flat paint must not exceed 50 g/l. The EcoLogo website contains a list of products that carry the seal.

from Canadian Home Workshop

Dave - 360renos

It's a Wrap

2010-08-22T21:15:00.013-04:00

Pictures of some completed projects from the past few weeks to a basement framing project that has passed its Building Inspection.

Backlash forces Grits to drop eco fees

2010-07-20T17:31:00.000-04:00

Provincial government's move follows Canadian Tire's rejection of 'botched' levy

By Robert Sibley, The Ottawa Citizen

OTTAWA — The McGuinty government is set to scrap its recently imposed eco fees on thousands of consumer products in the wake of consumer anger and retailer irritation.

Environment Minister John Gerretsen is expected to announce today that the Liberals will eliminate the environmental fees on thousands of potentially hazardous products -- less than three weeks after retailers were required by Stewardship Ontario to start charging customers on new products from fluorescent bulbs to fire extinguishers.

(Randall Denley: Liberals ducking eco fee blame)

The government retreat followed an earlier announcement Monday by Canadian Tire, one of Canada's largest retailers, that it would no longer impose eco fees on its customers. Denouncing the new fees as "botched" and "confusing," Canadian Tire president Mike Arnett said the company would have nothing to do with the fees until government and industry figure out a system that "makes sense for everyone."

"Stewardship Ontario did not do a good job in preparing Ontarians for these new fees," Arnett said in a bluntly worded statement.

"They did not properly communicate why the fees exist or the importance of safely recycling these hazardous products."

Within hours of the Canadian Tire announcements there were several news reports -- all citing "government sources" -- indicating the provincial government was beating a hasty retreat on the eco fee issue.

On July 1 -- the same day the Harmonized Sales Tax came into effect -- Stewardship Ontario, a government-created but industry-led and funded agency charged with overseeing and paying for the recycling of ordinary and toxic waste, imposed an updated version of its hazardous products recycling program, effectively requiring retailers and manufacturers to pay eco-fees on thousands of new products besides those already on the list. Some retailers, including Canadian Tire, attempted to pass the fees on to consumers.

Ontario consumers, surprised at the sudden imposition of the fees, weren't buying it and reacted angrily. They blamed the McGuinty government. Last week, for example, 300 people denounced the new eco fees as yet another tax imposition with a demonstration outside Premier Dalton McGuinty's constituency office in Ottawa.

Retailers weren't pleased either. Canadian Tire was forced to apologize last week to customers for wrongly charging eco fees higher than those authorized. However, Canadian Tire executives decided they weren't going to take it anymore, and on Monday the company said it would not charge the new eco fees until, in Arnett's words, "a better system can be developed with Stewardship Ontario and the Government of Ontario."

Arnett said the rollout for the new fees was "poorly handled by all involved." The provincial agency responsibly for recycling -- Waste Diversion Ontario, which oversees Stewardship Ontario -- set up a "very complicated" fee system for "materials" instead of "products," which, according to Arnett, meant that two similar bands of cleaning products could have two different eco fees depending on slight differences in their ingredients.

Even more confusing was how retailers were left to interpret the fees as they saw fit, Arnett said. That meant "five different retailers may charge five different eco-fees for the same product -- all depending on how they interpret the very complicated fee structure." In Canadian Tire's case, the new eco fees affected some 8,700 products.

Arnett also acknowledged Canadian Tire "did not do a good job of implementing the fees." That failing, however, was largely due to the "complex" nature of the fees. "Although we quickly fixed any incorrect fees, we still have customers every day asking us why two nearly identical products have different fees."

The eco-fee system was set up in 2008 to have manufacturers and retailers collect monies to fund a government recycling program for diverting hazardous and toxic materials away from garbage dumps. Stewardship Ontario collects the eco fees from businesses that make and sell these kinds of products. The companies, in turn, decide which fees they pass on to consumers.

The problem in this case -- and what particularly angered consumers and frustrated retailers -- is that there was no public notice eco fees would be imposed on thousands more products -- everything from household cleaners, paint and aerosols to fire extinguishers, fluorescent bulbs and even fish bowls.

For its part, Stewardship Ontario, implicitly acknowledged the fee rollout wasn't handled well when it announced late Monday -- also after Canadian Tire's decision -- that it would proceed with "a plan to increase the accuracy, transparency and consistency of eco fees at point of sale."

With the approval of its oversight body, Waste Diversion Ontario, Stewardship Ontario said it will require companies that make or import products to provide product-related eco-fee information allowing the agency to create a searchable data base on its website that consumers can check regarding hazardous products.

"We have heard from consumers loud and clear," said Gemma Zecchini, Stewardship Ontario's chief executive officer. "In retrospect, consumers clearly were looking for information on how eco fees work, and we will initiate efforts to help them understand that."

Not surprisingly, the eco-fee issue was politicized. "This is yet another Dalton McGuinty tax grab," said provincial Tory leader Tim Hudak. NDP leader Andrew Horwath said. "The McGuinty government dropped the ball."

Canadian Tire, meanwhile, expressed concern about banning eco fees. "We are concerned in the face of this botched roll-out of July 1st fees that the most politically-expedient and short-term solution is to 'ban fees for consumers,'" Arnett said. "That would be the wrong move."

Consumers should be able to make informed choices about what they buy, including information regarding how much it costs to recycle the product, the Canadian Tire president said. If consumers are paying recycling fees up front, as they now do on many products, they should know and understand what they are paying for. "They should never had to pay for hidden fees -- deliberate or otherwise."

Smile!!

2010-06-26T17:53:00.005-04:00

A Dentist's office in Ottawa that has had a refreshing update and should put a smile on their customers faces!-

New counter tops with custom 4" high back splashes so that we could install outlets along the length of the counter. 4 new faucets for the hand washing sinks and new pulls and knobs on the cabinets. Sure a lot of cabinet drawers in a Dentist's office!
Window trim and sills updated and removed the blinds so just waiting for tinted window film to be installed.

New look of C2 Ice Fog satin paint on the walls and C2 Cotton semi-gloss paint on the baseboards, door and window trim.

Unfortunately we found illegal wiring when the old counter was removed. Outlets were wired by installing a plug in one outlet and hard wiring it into the other outlets and lamp wire was used. WRONG!!

So we pulled out the illegal wiring. Installed the proper 14/2 NMD wire with the correct connections INSIDE the outlet boxes.

Stayed tuned for Projects 2 and 3 later on in the year when we complete the other examination rooms and Reception area

Dave - 360renos

The Low Flush Toilet Cotroversy

2010-06-18T06:34:00.003-04:00

360 renos is wrapping up a bathroom renovation this week and when we we were picking up the toilet it reminded me of an old article from the Jon Eakes web site.

I've seen toilets that do not flush properly and they sure can create aggravation for the home owner. Make sure you spend a little extra and buy quality toilet. Some of those $100 toilets from the big box stores just don't work well.

Don't forget the City of Ottawa Toilet Replacement Program where you can save $60 to $75 for installing an new toilet in your home

joneakes.com - (This is a real good example of a living history. I wrote the first part of this entry in 2001. With a book you would have to wait for the next edition for developments. With a bulletin board you would have to read a lot of old entries. What I love about my web site is that I can change, adapt and make this database entry new any day that this story evolves. Read on for the January 2008 update -- and keep coming back, because this story is not yet complete.)

You can call it a controversy or you can call it evolution. The fact of the matter is that each of us flushes a lot of potable water down the drain every single day. The reality is that as a society we must do something to conserve as much of that water as possible. In the mid 80's we took the first step by changing standard toilets from 20 litres (5 gal) per flush to 13 litres (3.5 gal) per flush. At the same time many gadgets started to be used, from tank dams to milk bottles, that would displace some of the water in our existing tanks. The new toilets worked, but the gadgets did not. It turned out that the old toilets just were not designed to move a lot of stuff with so little water. The first picture shows the cross section of a standard 13 litre (3.5 gal) toilet. The second picture is a graphic of the flow path for one model of the a 6 litre (1.6 gallon) low flush toilet.

In the 90's, the ecological movement kept pushing to reduce water use and the 'low flush toilet' , using only about 6 litres of water, was invented. Many regulatory bodies jumped quickly to solve their local water supply problems (and reduce water treatment costs) and mandated the installation of these low flush toilets. But not many of them worked very well. The engineering wasn't yet perfected and most of the manufacturers left a rough lining on the walls in the drain part of the toilet, which just couldn't clear with so little water. So they were dubbed the 'double flush' toilet -- you had to flush it twice to get it to work -- and the water savings were flushed down the toilet at the same time. The city of Vancouver decided to ignore the problems and simply required low flush in all new construction and renovation. The province of Ontario has had a similar requirement on the books since 1996, but they held meetings with the toilet manufacturers and the two agreed not to enforce it in new construction for three years, hopefully enough time for the companies to come up with better toilets. For an even longer time the official requirement for low flush toilets in renovation in Ontario was left largely un-enforced, while the industry was still studying what happens when you add a new low flush toilet to an old drain system. The Americans, on the other hand, were legislating low flow toilets across the board and smuggling Canadian 13 litre toilets south became big business.

So what could have been a smooth evolution became a controversy. Those who wanted to save water were basically legislating clogged toilets for much of the population. But controversy or no controversy, the evolution of plumbing continues. Some of the manufacturers finally got the toilets right with re-engineering of the water flow and better manufacturing methods to get a smooth siphon trap, so now the waste does get through the toilet. Well it does with some of the models -- but with lots of models people were still finding that they needed that second flush to clear the waste. Almost 45% of the low flow toilets on the market have proven in independent testing to not clear waste from the toilet with one flush (January 2004). Unfortunately the code bodies are not requiring builders and plumbers to put in toilets that actually work, -- they are only requiring ones that use very little water.

In the meantime, many water-conscious municipalities in both the US and Canada have been providing financial rebates to consumers for the replacement of old toilets with water-conserving low flush toilets, but they have been inundated with consumer complaints about toilets that didn't work well. So finally the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, some Ontario government bodies and a whole bunch of municipalities in both the US and Canada got together under the lead of the Canadian Water and Wastewater Association (CWWA) to do an end run on the standards bodies and do some realistic testing of toilets, with the objective of providing an approved list of specific toilets that they could subsidize for their water conservation programs. Veritec Consulting in Mississauga, Ontario was hired to test toilets with a material that was for was for the first time very close in its physical properties to real life human waste. They even had to invent a new tool for the water conservation industry, the T5 FlushMeter -- a flow meter that measures the real water consumption of an installed toilet in a real home without bothering the plumbing. They found that almost 45% of the low flush toilets on the market still don't clear waste from the toilet with one flush. Their initial final report was made public in January of 2004 complete with the quantitative information. At first they just released pass/fail results for their new standard. But that doesn't really help a consumer or a builder to choose models that are better than marginally acceptable. So the final report includes quantitative results on how much material the toilet can clear on a single flush. When you read the full report, you will see that some models cleared 10 times more material than others, and that the price of the toilet had little bearing on performance. For a full copy of the updated 11th edition (January 2008) report 'CWWA Report: Maximum Performance Testing of Popular Toilet Models' visit their site at: www.CWWA.ca. Even more convenient sortable formats of the report can be found on the researcher's web sitewww.Veritec.ca. This is a must read for all contractors, renovators and builders.

But we haven't gotten to the end of the evolution yet. Some toilets were getting the waste out of the toilet, but the drain pipe seemed to still be problematic. Many plumbers and builders were still complaining that, even with the best of the toilets, there were far more cases of recurring clogging than there should be. Apparently the flush gets the 'stuff' out of the toilet, but not down the line. So I set out to find out what has been done to ensure that the diameter and slope of the drain pipe will work with just 6 litres of water, and what happens when a toilet uses 5 litres to get the waste out of the toilet and only one litre to move it down the pipe? There seems to have been very little research done on the pipe that runs from the toilet to the soil stack or out to the street. Once the basic low flow fixture testing mentioned above was completed, showing that we are finally beginning to be able to define what makes a good toilet, it was possible to convince this same group of interested parties to extend the initial research to the horizontal drain line. The fun part of that was that I got to go film 'stuff' moving down transparent horizontal drain lines -- just the kind of video you want to dream about at night. The latest report on that CMHC study is also on the CWWA and Veritec's web sites: Evaluation of Water-Efficient Toilet Technologies to Carry Wast in Drainlines, revised April 2005. The drainlines were doing better than we thought but it was shown that low flow toilets do better with 3" diameter drain pipes, not 4" -- this gives more of a floating effect to moving waste. Generally if there is a proper slope and no dips in the drainlines, drainlines were not presenting problems for most low flow toilets. The problem could come with long runs and infrequent toilet use as in a long run it often took a later second flush to clear the line, giving time for things to dry out and no longer move freely.

What can I recommend for people who do want to conserve water, but don't want the unsanitary condition of backed up pipes? The good news is that there are a good number and variety of toilets that perform quite well with little water. Go to the web site listed above and only purchase toilets that performed well in the tests. If you insist on only buying performing toilets (and, as I said, a higher price did not necessarily indicate better performance), that will force all the manufactures to improve their toilets and possibly get on this list. In fact, if you read the report carefully you will see some manufacturers who made significant changes in their toilets in the period of time between when this testing started and before the final report was issued. Those who won't pay attention will simply be left behind, clogged up in their own development. I expect some dramatic and quick changes in the toilet industry because of this report and the ones to follow.

Dave - 360renos

Weather Restrictions for Home Renovations

2010-06-15T07:23:00.001-04:00

A neat handy info tool for the DIYer

A joint project betweenJonEakes.com and CTV.ca.

Go to the weather page at CTV.ca. Check out your local weather conditions. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will find the Weather and Home Improvement window. Choose your project. Choose your product. The short listing of weather related restrictions for that particular product are listed directly in front of you. There is then also a hot link to my web site for more details.

Inversely, if you look up the keyword Weather on JonEakes.com, you will see the entire listing of projects and products and when you choose any one it will give you details about that project and a hot link to the CTV.ca weather page to get the specific temperature and other limitations as well as your weather forecast.

Their hope is this will_save you hours of reading fine print labels in the store.

Dave - 360renos

That's a Wrap

2010-05-04T14:31:00.007-04:00

Quite a few smaller projects that have been completed by the 360renos team over the last few weeks.

We sure have been busy with home owners wishing to beat the cost of the HST which will be added to the labour portion of Home Renovation projects.

A new Kitchen counter

Interior Painting

New ceramic flooring, toilet, sink and baseboards

New ceiling fans. We have installed 5 new ceiling fans in two weeks in 5 different homes! A great idea, as it will help your energy costs by circulating the air and not having to run your air conditioning as much.

As well as door and window casing, drywall repairs, blinds and drapery installations. We can help you with almost any project around your home.

Dave - 360renos

Original Architecture in the Glebe

2010-04-23T07:11:00.008-04:00

This 1935 home in the Glebe area of Ottawa brings back a lot of memories. I grew up in the Glebe and when I got my first place after leaving home it was a house in the Glebe. I think being around this style of buildings and amazing architecture has always been so cool and amazing to me. Especially since todays homes really can be quite boring with its 2" high MDF baseboards and spindly railings and popcorn ceilings.

We sanded down the stairs, risers, stringers and landing leading to the 2nd floor. All was finished in a blend of rich mahogany and cherry wood stain.

Huge, thick door trim and baseboards. Thank goodness they had never been painted. Original 6 panel doors. Walls were updated with new colors through out the 1st and 2nd floor.

This is an original handcrafted ceiling medallion. Todays are made with polyurethane, way back when, made by hand with plaster.

We even found some old knob and tube wiring when we opened up a ceiling to repair a 2nd floor plumbing leak. The good news this time was that it was not being used and had just been left behind when the electrical in the home was upgraded. You can see in the picture where the homes original ceiling is with a lathe and plaster finish and at some point a renovation was done and a second lower ceiling was added with drywall.

Dave - 360renos

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Wrong Wrong Wrong!

2010-04-22T08:12:00.006-04:00

I get a call from an Interior Designer I do many home projects with asking if I can have a look at a plumbing leak and ceiling replacement she is in need of for her rental property home. We head off to a beautiful 1895 home built in The Market area of Ottawa to do a little investigating of where the leak is coming from.

Upon opening up the ceiling we find a small leak coming from the 2nd floor corner shower drain and flange. Not a big leak but enough to damage the Kitchen ceiling below

So the 360renos team completes the repair on the leaking drain. Then we remove more of the damaged drywall ceiling so it can be replaced and we find big time problems from the previous home owner that did their own renovations years earlier. A lack of knowledge with building and electrical codes left the home with a major electrical hazard.

We find insulation wrapped around the toilet drain line. I guess they were trying to catch condensation drips from the drain line and soaking it up with the insulation before it dripped on the drywall ceiling.

The huge problem though was the old knob and tub wiring and 14/2 NMD wiring and junction box BURIED in the ceiling BEHIND drywall. Just wrong .... illegal .... and highly dangerous for possible fire hazard. The 14/2 wire is resting against the water copper pipe; a great hazard for electrical shock and you've got to love the way the knob & tube wiring wraps around the black ABS drain line. Oh man!

All junction boxes must be accessible and never can be buried behind drywall. So we called in our electrician and in no time he had a new power supply line run to the 2nd floor and the junction box and old knob & tube wiring removed.

The Interior Designer now has a much safer home for her tenant and a new kitchen ceiling.

Dave - 360renos

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Drywall vs Suspended Ceilings

2010-04-18T13:53:00.003-04:00

When it comes to your basement ceiling, suspended wins.

Great article by Mike Holmes and I agree that basements should be finished with suspended ceilings where ever possible. With so many designer tiles now available your basement does not have to have the 'office' look with this style of finished ceiling

When it comes to choosing a ceiling product for your basement rec room, there are two basic choices — drywall and suspended. Most people prefer the look of smooth drywall, and I understand that — it’s relatively easy to install and looks great. It’s hard to argue with the elegance and simplicity of a perfectly flat, drywalled ceiling. Suspended ceilings look ’seventies’ to many people, or institutional. But I think they more people should consider using them.

Depending on the height of your basement, you may be limited to one type or the other, so let’s start with assessing your basement, to get an idea of which way you should go. The distance between the basement floor and the bottom of the floor joist overhead will be the big deciding factor. That’s all about how much headroom you have — or how much you can afford to lose. Drywall can be fixed directly to the joists, so you only lose a half an inch of headroom — the thickness of the material. With suspended systems, you can lose about 3-5 inches.

If you have a new home, the basement usually is deep enough and ceiling height usually isn’t a concern, so you have your choice. But in the case of an older home, the basement was thought of as a utility area, not as living space. So the room height isn’t necessarily going to be great.

In this case you’ll need to maximize the headroom, so drywall might seem the best or only option. But be warned: if there are electrical junction boxes in between the joists, you can’t permanently cover these over with drywall. That’s dangerous and against code.

So, you will need to have your wiring updated and those junction boxes moved. That’s going to add to your reno budget.

Also, in some older homes I find there are many times where copper piping or ductwork is attached to the bottom of joists, making it impossible to hang drywall directly to the bottom of the joists.

This situation is exactly why I’m a fan of a suspended system. It always gives you easy access to all the electrical and plumbing in your ceiling. It’s practical. And, to my mind, the disadvantage of losing a couple of inches of headroom is worth the access convenience. Suspended panels can also be replaced easily in the event of a plumbing leak from above, or long-term condensation damage from sweating pipes.

To me it’s a no-brainer that, given the choice, a suspended ceiling is the way to go. But if those institutional-looking two by four foot foam rectangles we are so used to seeing in commercial buildings are putting you off, you need to know there are new ceiling systems that look stylish. Or, your contractor can simply cut the panels into 2 by 2 foot sections to get away from that school or office look.

Another factor to consider is the acoustic properties of the space. Are you going to have your TV with surround sound speakers in the basement? Some suspended ceilings are made of soft, sound absorbing material so that it minimizes sound deflection or echo in the room. It makes a noticeable difference, especially if the floor isn’t carpeted. And, back to practical reasons — running speaker wires for a 5.1 surround sound system is easy with a suspended ceiling, and that goes for a basement installation, or even for running wires for a TV room on the floor above. It is not nearly as straightforward and clean with a finished drywall ceiling.

As far as sound proofing qualities, both drywall and suspended ceilings can have equal amounts. Drywall can be mounted on resilient channels that separate the drywall from the floor joists and minimize the transfer of certain frequencies. But the trade-off is a thicker ceiling. You can also get special soundproof drywall sheets. Because suspended ceilings already have a resilient property built in, and has a sound absorbing feature to minimize sound deflection, I would go with the suspended ceiling if overall acoustics, as well as soundproofing are important to your environment.

The important thing to remember when choosing a ceiling system is to make your decision based on practical reasons and not strictly based on looks. Ask yourself these questions:

Do I need to maximize the headroom?

Do I have electric junction boxes between the joists?

Are there obstructions hanging down below the bottom edge of the joists?

Am I going to need access behind the ceiling in the future?

It may be that you have HVAC ductwork hanging down low in certain places. Maybe your situation requires more than one type of ceiling system, such as drywall around your ducts and a suspended ceiling across the flat expanse. The trick is to make the best decisions directly based on the situation and the obstacles already in place.

Dave - 360renos

Renovate a Dud and Move into a Dream Home

2010-04-17T15:10:00.004-04:00

Don't get caught up in bidding wars: renovate a dud and move into a dream home

It's a disappointing but familiar scenario for potential homebuyers: you find a house with the right floor plan in an ideal location. Hopes are high as you walk down a carpeted hallway, casting aside the wish it was hardwood.

But you're crushed when you see the small, outdated kitchen and walk away from the almost-dream property, only to repeat the process again and again.

"You come in, you don't like the kitchen, you're going to waste all this time going looking at other homes when this might be the perfect house," says Laura Parsons, a mortgage specialist at the Bank of Montreal (TSX:BMO).

Canadians feeling a sense of urgency to buy while mortgage rates are low are more likely to engage in bidding wars and overspend or panic and settle for something that doesn't meet their needs, Parsons says.

" It's created some excitement in the market and our prices are going up so most Canadians are feeling the pressure: 'Oh my goodness, if I don't get in now, what does the future look like?"' But it doesn't have to be that way - and one alternative is to buy a fixer-upper for an excellent price and have it customized by the time you move in.

Purchase-plus-improvement mortgages can allow qualified purchasers to borrow additional money from a mortgage lender to pay for those renovations. Under the plan, a lender takes into account the improvements made by the new owner and gives credit based on the increased value of the property.

Gary Siegle, a regional manager at mortgage brokerage firm Invis Inc., says the program is suited to buyers willing to "look beyond the bruises" and visualize how renovations could transform houses that are often underpriced because they need work.

"People who are looking at this are people who are saying 'the house I really want is not currently available or it's overpriced, so here's another option, I can buy a house that's the right floor plan and it's not going to take a lot of work to make it look like the home I was really hoping to get'." There's another option for homeowners who want to take advantage of low rates, but avoid the stress of relocating, Siegle says. They can refinance a mortgage to include the cost of renovations or use equity in the home they already own to secure a line of credit.

Garages, bathrooms and kitchens usually give homeowners the biggest return on their investment but a purchase-plus-improvement mortgage can also be used for anything that adds value to a home.

The plan also benefit sellers who don't want to waste time and money on renovations before they put their home on the market for someone else to love or hate.

Instead, sellers may want to make the buyer aware of the option and then negotiate based on time instead of price, with the seller offering to be flexible about allowing the buyer to start upgrades while they're still living in the home.

Siegle says its important to remember that buyers still have to pay for the renovations up front with a credit card or savings but will be reimbursed when the renovations are complete. That can be a challenge for buyers with limited funds.

This is how a purchase plus improvement mortgage works step by step: Step 1: Shop around for the best rate on a mortgage pre-approval, which will provide a clear price range.

Step 2: Put in an offer on the fixer-upper, making sure it's clear the bid is subject to appraisals, inspections and the cost of renovations.

Step 3: Have the home appraised for its "as-is" value, as well as a projection of what it would be worth post-renovations. Also have the home inspected to make sure there are no hidden additional costs.

Step 4: Get written cost estimates from contractors on upgrades. Take the best estimate to the lender.

Step 3: Apply for a mortgage that includes the cost of upgrades. If a home is appraised at $400,000 but requires $50,000 worth of renovations, buyers would secure a mortgage for $450,000, in addition to the minimum five per cent down payment.

Step 4: If the mortgage is approved, close the offer with the seller. The funds for renovations will be sent to your lawyer "in trust" when the mortgage closes.

Step 5: Upgrades, paid for up front by the buyer. Depending on the extent of the work that needs to be done, it could add weeks or months to the move-in date.

Step 6: Renovations are complete. Funding, which has been held back by a lawyer until the work is completed and inspected, is released and the contractor can be paid. If the renovation is more extensive and costly than just cosmetic changes, the advances are staged, meaning buyers receive them in stages as work progresses.

Sunny Freeman -AP

Dave -

Building Permits and Forms

2010-03-29T07:51:00.007-04:00

Tis the season for the busy deck building season. The city of Ottawa requires building permits for the construction of most types new decks that you may adding to your home. The permit is to ensure your project meets minimum structural, fire, health and safety, construction and building standards.

It is the homeowner's responsibility to obtain all proper permits for the work occurring on your premises — but the contractor can do it for you, if that's part of your contract. At 360renos we can handle this step for the homeowner as it usually involves detailed drawings and measurements that must be submitted with the permit application. An inspector will check any work that is done after a permit has been issued on a pre-determined schedule.

The Building Permit links below guide you to the required permits and forms you need for any building project.

Need to know how to prepare and apply for a building permit? This link will show you what approvals, fees and applications you need for that new building project.
Link to City of Ottawa - Building Permits page

Want to know what building projects need a permit?
Link to City of Ottawa - Building Permits

How about building projects that do not need a permit?
Link to City of Ottawa - Building Permits

Thanks,
Dave - 360renos

Preventing Falls on Stairs

2010-03-15T17:11:00.004-04:00

The stairs in your home — the ones you climb up and down every day — can be dangerous. According to the Canadian Institute for Health Information, between April 1, 2001 and March 31, 2002, a total of 6,224 Canadians fell on or from stairs or steps in their homes and were injured seriously enough to require a hospital visit. More than half of the 6,224 people hospitalized — 3,426 — were seniors (men and women 65 years or older.

We visited a home today that had a finished basement space but the stairway had no railing. This is an older home with quite a step staircase so it was in desperate need of a railing. The home owners insurance company requested that they have one installed immediately to reduce the risk of falling on such a steep stairway which would limit the home owners potential liability.

There are so many codes and regulations concerning handrails and stairways that it is a daunting field trying to interpret the Building Code for most home owners. Rise, run, nosing, headroom - it all must meet specific dimensions so it is best left to the experts.

SCHL

Dave - 360renos

Curbing Rental Property Maintenance and Repair Costs

2010-03-14T19:10:00.004-04:00

It's one thing to collect rents. Ample rents, of course, amps up the cash inflow and is favorable to any landlord. But investors who turn a blind eye to maintenance and repair costs can also discover that, despite abundant income streams, their cash flow is surprisingly lower than expected and the profitability of their real estate investment bitterly disappointing.

Enlist a Handyman

Even if you plan to do some of the work yourself, it's still a good idea to build a relationship with a person on whom you can regularly depend and trust. Employing a trustworthy and competent all-around handyman to take care of your day-to-day property maintenance and occasional repairs will do wonders to ease the drain on your time and pocketbook. Moreover, it improves your status with tenants if they know the landlord is listening and is responsive.

Engage in Preventive Maintenance

The idea here is to save you money in the long run by fixing something correctly before it either breaks or gets worse. When a loose hinge, leaking faucet, or toilet isn't fixed in a timely manner, for instance, floors and ceilings can become damaged and cost you a lot more than a simple repair. Just apply the same principle to your rental properties that you would to your car. Anticipate and alleviate repairs when the cost is relatively small and always ask your maintenance experts how you might replace high-maintenance items with low-maintenance items.

Real estate investors that pay close attention to a property's entire financial performance, including maintenance and repairs, are more likely to succeed at generating a profit from rental property investment than others less discerning.

At 360renos we currently manage the maintenance and repairs for investment owners in Orleans, Ottawa and even as far flung as Nova Scotia.

Give us a call how our packages can save you money and to discuss our competitive rates for when your in need of repairs.

ezinearticles

Dave - 360renos

Kitchen Project in Orleans

2010-03-11T08:33:00.008-05:00

360renos had the pleasure of completing the ceramic back splash, cork flooring and lighting for a home owners Kitchen that was renovated with new cabinets and marble counter top

Bamboo flooring is highly attractive and anyone who spends long hours cooking in the kitchen will know that hard floors can be extremely tiresome on feet and legs. Cork is much kinder to the body.

Swanky pendant light amazingly from a big box store and we also installed halogen under cabinet lighting on seperate dimmer switchesA kitchen back splash that is beautiful and functional and serves as a very attractive centerpiece for the kitchen.

Dave - 360renos

Points To Consider When Looking For A Renovation Contractor

2010-03-10T20:14:00.003-05:00

Generally, when planning for a home renovation, we already have estimates about the things we want to refurbish in our houses. These great ideas are intented to add more solace in our homes and make our homes a true haven for each members of the family. Employing a professional however is a smart choice, holding more experience and knowledge than we do, they can add and even transform our ideas into something that we did not even concieve of. We need to be very careful though, knowing that in any area of work, there are always good ones and bad ones. Thus before moving any further with any renovation project, choosing the right contractor is a must to spare ourselves from possible headaches.

Always take things one step at a time. Many of us would think that finding a good contractor is easy, it is the other way however. To avoid landing on the wrong contractor, there are some points you can follow.

Once you have started your saga, center your mind on engaging a professional and well experienced renovation crew. Seek for references. A good contractor should be able to show off samples of their work of art. It is best that you check at least more than five projects they have done. Upon seeing their work you will be able to gauge if they have the capability of handling your renovation project.

Another thing to ask contractors is if they have licenses and insurances. You will never know what could take place during the renovation particularly to the crews doing the actual renovation, an insurance in place will save you from any possible troubles.

Always remember to place everything you have agreed on with your contractor into writing. The contract should clearly define what type of work needs to be done, when it will be completed and what are the materials needed. The contract should of course state the payments plan for the project, stating the amount of down-payment, payment once the renovation project sets out and the payment when the project is already completed. It is also wise to add in your contract the resolutions for things such as deadlines that are not met. This will restrict any possibilities of wasting time during the project.

Author articlespace.cz.cc

Dave - 360renos

Make A Statement

2010-03-01T08:49:00.007-05:00

The pedestal is out and we are starting with a new vanity

The best powder rooms serve basic functions of a bathroom, to be sure, but they do so with grace and charm. Their small footprints have no correlation to their overall importance. "The powder room is one space where items might be examined up close," says designer Mary Evelyn McKee. Design it well, and you put your best foot forward.

The trick is to turn the challenges of designing a powder room -- the small size, the prosaic functionality, the all-too-common lack of windows -- into opportunities. Use the space to display art that is better viewed at close range, to experiment with layered lighting, or to hang a striking antique mirror.Above all, make a statement.

So we replaced the baseboards, gave the bathroom a fresh coat of paint, hung this funky mirror, with new light fixture and towel bars

Dave - 360renos

Country Bungalow Update

2010-02-24T07:51:00.007-05:00

From Richmond to Limoges we travel the National Capital region completing renovation projects.

A main floor bathroom with laundry center received a long overdue update to its decor

New light fixtures, paint colors, accessories and of course flooring.

The flooring is a beautiful 18"x18" travertine tile. We set the tiles tight together with minimal grout lines We placed the tile up the wall and accented the top with 1" travertine tile that comes on mesh sheets and is cut down to the appropriate size.

A new vanity with marble top and a funky 'water pump' faucet. Living in the country has its own set of challenges for fresh water so we had to drill the marble counter for a water softener faucet - no problem with the right tools.

Dave - 360renos

Condo Painting

2010-02-13T17:09:00.008-05:00

Updated a new condo in Aylmer from the brilliant builders white paint color to a few colors that the new home owner will enjoy.

Crown moulding and baseboards completed in C2 Sheer and walls finished in C2 Appaloosa.

C2 Infrared highlights the den.

and C2 Cappuccino Froth compliments the Ensuite bathroom.

Dave - 360renos

Winter Painting Tips

2010-02-09T14:04:00.004-05:00

The most common difficulties encountered during the winter while apply quality acrylic latex paint is an uneven look due to roller marks, curtaining and picture framing (when cutting and rolling looks different).

There is a very simple explanation for this and it has to do with drying time. In the winter when temperatures drop below -10C it becomes extremely dry inside your home causing the drying time for quality acrylics to be reduced from 20 to 30 minutes to under 5 minutes, sometimes when it is extremely cold out it can take less than 2 minutes.

When this occurs and if no action is taken to slow down the drying time, back-rolling becomes nearly impossible and you are in essence putting 2 coats in some areas and 1 in others causing a very uneven look on the walls. This problem becomes more noticeable with darker colors.

What can be Done?

Reduce the temperature and air circulation in the room by closing doors and vents while the room is being painted. This will allow the paint to flow and level better as it will slow the drying time.

Floetrol can be added to wall paint to further slow the drying time and improve flow and leveling of the paint.

A top quality roller with the proper nap (10mil) will also aid in achieving an even finish.

The proper amount of paint needs to be used on the walls. Stretching out your paint will exasperate the problem by reducing the flow and leveling of the paint coat.

The reason this problem is not as significant in lower quality paints is due to the fact they have higher solvent contents while Quality Acrylics are much higher in solids.

This is one reason why at 360renos we use only quality paints such as C2 and Pratt and Lambert

Give us a call when you are ready for your next painting project - 360renos

Dave - 360renos

Doors & More

2010-01-25T20:40:00.006-05:00

A home where the customer needed a little more storage in their Master Bedroom. So we gave them a window bench that allowed for storage and once the new cushions arrive it will be a great seat for dressing.

New baseboards and 1/4 round were installed as well as new door casings.

Original wood louvered closet doors where through out the home, so we replaced them with custom cut 6 panel bi-fold closet doors.

and replaced all the flat slab doors with 6 panel doors as well as new stainless steel hinges and door knobs

Dave - 360renos